what i've learned about hanging my portraits
size matters more than you think
people always go too small. i make my aluminum portraits in three sizes: 18" x 24", 24" x 36", and 36" x 24". here's how to pick the right one.
the wall size rule i actually use
if your wall is wider than 8 feet, you need at least 24" x 36". if it's a really big wall - like 12+ feet - you either need the 36" x 24" or multiple pieces. i've seen too many people put an 18" x 24" on a huge wall and it just disappears.
what works where
- 18" x 24": bathrooms, small bedrooms, tight spaces
- 24" x 36": most living rooms, bedrooms, offices
- 36" x 24": long walls, above couches, statement pieces
- multiple pieces: when you want to fill a really big space
height is about the person, not the wall
forget that "57 inches from the floor" gallery rule. that's for museums where everyone's standing and walking around. in real spaces, you need to think about who's looking at it and from where.
how i figure out height
stand where people will actually be when they see the art. if it's above a couch, sit on the couch and look up. the art should feel like it's at a comfortable viewing angle, not like you're craning your neck or looking down at it.
height guidelines that actually work
- above furniture: 6-8 inches gap between furniture and bottom of frame
- hallways: a bit higher since people are walking and looking up
- bedrooms: think about the view from the bed
- dining rooms: consider the view from seated position
lighting can make or break aluminum
aluminum art is different from canvas or paper prints. it reflects light, which can be amazing or terrible depending on your setup.
the phone test
stand where you want to hang the art and look at your phone screen. if you can see it clearly without glare or weird reflections, the lighting should work fine for the aluminum. if your phone screen is washed out or you can't see it, the art will have the same problem.
lighting that works
- soft natural light: north-facing windows are perfect
- track lighting: angled down at about 30 degrees
- picture lights: LED strips mounted above the frame
- table lamps: create nice ambient light for evening viewing
lighting that kills it
- direct sunlight: creates glare and hot spots
- overhead recessed: casts shadows on faces
- fluorescent: makes skin tones look weird
- single bright source: creates harsh reflections
when to group vs. go solo
portrait art has a presence. sometimes you want that presence to own a space, sometimes you want it to be part of a conversation with other pieces.
single pieces work when
you want to make a statement, the space has strong architectural features, or the room design is already busy. one strong portrait can anchor everything else in the room.
groupings work when
you have a long wall to fill, multiple conversation areas, or you want to create a gallery-like feel. but keep the spacing tight - 2-3 inches between frames, not 6+ inches like people always want to do.
context over color matching
people get hung up trying to match colors exactly. that's not how good spaces work. think about the mood and energy you want instead.
what i tell my clients
portrait art should feel like a person in the room. if it disappears into the background or feels like decoration, you picked wrong. it should have a presence that adds to the space's personality, not just fill a blank wall.
quick context guide
- neutral spaces: go bold with color and expression
- colorful rooms: find one dominant color that works with your palette
- dark/rich spaces: look for pieces with strong light values and contrast
- minimalist design: one strong piece that becomes the room's focal point
questions about your specific space?
every space is different. if you're not sure what would work best, i'm happy to help you figure it out.
ask about your space see the artwork